How To Properly Give A Horse An Injection

You may not want to do it, but eventually you will be in a situation where you will have to. A series of antibiotics need to be given to an injured horse or a horse that is nervous may have to be sedated before you can clip or shoe him.

A well-education owner should know how to use the injection form of medications since many come in this form such as vaccinations, tranquilizers, antibiotics, anti-inflammatory medications and analgesics. Many prefer that veterinarians do the routine vaccinations and you should always consult a veterinarian before administering any drugs to a horse, although an owner may be faced with a time when they have to give the horse the injection themselves.

There are four ways that an injection can be administered: intradermally which is within the skin, subcutaneously which is under the skin, intramuscularly which is in the muscle and intravenously which is in the vein. Allergy testing and some vaccines typically use an intradermal injection in horses. A higher level of skill and experience is needed for intravenous injections which is why many owners prefer to limit their administration of medications to the easier and less risky intramuscular methods of administration. There is risk with any type of injection which is why it is important to learn how to do them properly. A patient and tolerant horse is the best to practice on when learning and the best person to instruct you in the proper methods is a veterinarian. Ask your vet about the best sites for intramuscular injection sites on the neck and the vertical part of the upper hind leg so that you can identify them later when you need them. Injections should be kept near the gaskin on the hind leg to avoid scarring the muscle. The top of the hip should never be used for any type of shot. Abscesses may form in this area even though the muscle mass in this area is large and seems like an easy area. This area is generally hard to clear up since the only place to drain is into the horse. You veterinarian should also show you how to properly load a syringe and give the horse the injection. A one and a half inch needle is typically used to give intramuscular injections allow the dosage will determine the final size of the needle. You may not have to prepare the site with an alcohol swab if you have a reasonably clean horse, but it is generally a good idea to do so. The needle should be inserted up to the hub to ensure it is deep into the muscle. You should pull the plunger back first to make sure there is no blood that is drawn into the syringe before you depress the plunger. If there is blood in the syringe then you should withdraw the needle and reinsert it away from the blood vessel. Before depressing the plunger you should check again. Some substances should only be injected intramuscularly which is why it is always important to check, seizures can be caused by a mistake and the horse may even be killed. You should always discard used needles and syringes unless you are going to sterilize them. Never use the same needle on a different horse in order to prevent the risk of transmitting blood borne diseases between horses. Injections will also become more uncomfortable for the horse since using sterilized needles repeatedly will make them dull. After the technique has been demonstrated by your veterinarian you should have them supervise you while you practice on a horse with a small amount of sterile saline solution. This way you will have the confidence and skin to safely give your horse an injection should it ever become necessary.

Assembling an Equine Emergency Kit for the Unexpected Horse Injury

Breeders of horses swear by preparedness. They have special milk formulas on hand just in case that there may be a problem with a broodmare.

Horse owners in general are prepared for a variety of issues, yet sometimes they forget to think about the little medical emergencies that crop up without warning. To this end, it is imperative that your stable gear includes a well stocked and often updated equine emergency kit; experts also suggest that you have a smaller kit for when you transport your animals or ride them. Here are some of the items that should be included:.

Store your emergency items in a sturdy box with a good fitting clasp and a handle. A fishing tackle box will work. In alphabetical order, you need write down the items contained in your emergency kit. If you spend a bit of extra time on the set-up, inventory control will be a cinch. Include the expiration date of any ointments or drugs and throw them out as they expire. Pack cotton gauze wraps, gauze squares, and also cotton sheet leg wraps. Flannel wraps for wrapping a knee, unscented sanitary pads for wound dressings, and vet wrap will permit for proper bandaging. Add splint material, such as a PVC pipe. Include towels. They are useful not only for wound control of the animal but will also permit you to clean up yourself and the horse. Cold packs for the application to an injured are essential; duct tape will hold them in place and also work as a foot wrap in a pinch. A horse blanket/cooler will also help an animal in shock. Add a thermometer that already has a fishing line threaded through one end, and is attached to a clothespin. A stethoscope is a good idea as well, but make sure you ask a veterinarian about what you should be listening to. Scissors are a staple of an emergency kit. One pair should have a wide, blunt end, while the other is small and pointed. Forceps and tweezers as well as a flashlight will help you to remove objects from a cut or puncture wound. Wire cutters are also a good idea, especially since many times a horse may become entangled in a bit of fencing. Also add wound wash and ointment. Other odds and ends to include are insect repellants, ointments to dress hoof wounds, rubbing alcohol for disinfecting, poultices, electrolytes for treatment of shock or colic, Epsom salts for hoof pain, a hoof pick, a shoe puller, and syringes. Different sizes are indicated for the various uses, so it is best to have a few on hand. Of course, if you are not comfortable with the use of some of the items in your kit - perhaps you do not know how to give your horse a shot, or how to properly wrap a leg - consult with your veterinarian who can show you. Practice your skills often so that in an emergency you will be able to respond with ease.

Making Ends Meet – Curtailing the Expenses of Being a Horse Owner

Horse care done right is not cheap. As a matter of fact, many a horse aficionado is tempted to cut corners with respect to horse care, only to decide against this option and instead compromise and skimp on other areas of their lives.

To this end, many horse owners choose to spend more money on feed rather than less. Planting pastures is seen as a long term investment, since a lush pasture provides much needed nutrition to the horses.To this end, some horse owners suggest that you use Bermuda grass for your pasture and seed ryegrass alongside it. Fescue, orchard grass, and lespedeza are also famous for offering important health benefits. If you employ a rotational grazing approach, you will prevent one area from being overgrazed, thus

permitting some white clover and native grasses to establish themselves, adding more nutritional benefits. This will help you in the end when you are able to seriously cut back on the amount of grain you have to feed to keep your horses healthy.Another money saving tip is to purchase your feed in bulk rather than in the customary 50-pound bag. Additionally, hay can be purchased by the ton instead of by the bale, yet remember that anything you purchase in bulk must have proper storage. If you do not have the storage facility to put aware these quantities of feed, you will end up with vermin infestations and mold. Of course, bulk purchases also lend themselves for insecticides and herbicides. If you choose to do so, make certain that you understand the mixing process and that you have a place to put the concentrate as well as the mixed portions. Saving money on a stall is often not as simple. You may be able to time share your stall by moving one horse in when you move another out, but if you need two stalls at the same time, you will need to pay for it. Some horse owners are able to make a deal with the owner of the stable and offer labor in return for a reduced bill. Save money on equipment as well. Instead of purchasing something, first try to borrow it from someone or rent it. If you establish a good relationship with fellow horse owners, borrowing is usually not a problem – as long as you return everything quickly, in good condition, and cleaner than it was when you received it. Rentals will still save you money since the actual cost of the equipment you might need can actually be quite high. While skimping on veterinary care is not recommended, there are several procedures you can learn to do yourself, such as giving vaccinations and even trimming feet – by the by, some horses do not even shoes, if they have no hoof problems and are not ridden on hard surfaces. Obviously, you first want to have a vet show you the proper procedures before trying it yourself. Veterinary supplies may also be purchased form suppliers at a discount, whereas a vet usually charges more for them.